Belgrade, identity card

When: August 2015

With whom: boyfriend

The highlight:  dinner in Skadarlija, bohémienne district of the city

The disappointment: everything beyond the city centre and the tourist routes

The surprise: tomb of Josip Broz Tito and May 25 Museum

The inhabitants: bewildered

The colour: gray

The sound: ticking of an old wall clok

The smell: onion and garlic

The gender: male, about sixty-five years old, marked by life and unable to recover again despite few faint attempts

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